Resort Report... Erdem

Erdem Resort 2013
Photo from Style.com

Yesterday, Erdem Moralioglu's showed his resort collection. It was a barely recognizable mixing of his now classic ladylike style, with a more subversive, sensuality... The fact that he mentioned the Amish as an influence may sound odd until you look through the showing, taking note of the way the neoprene skirt stands away from the body, not to mention the naive craft like floral appliqués pieced randomly over the modern fabric.
I am in love with the full, head to toe print look that is so pervasive in the industry at the moment, and Erdem really grabbed the trend by the horns! He took extreme blown up florals, and put them on tops and matching skirt, worn with printed chunky heels, (another fall staple...) covering the Erdem girl in lovely electric blue florals.

Erdem Resort 2013
Photo from Style.com

One of my favorite looks was the neon pink, detailed, navy lace dress! All of those words put together again, probably sound like a big mess, but the sum of the parts equaled a gorgeous, slinky number that maintains the lady like aesthetic of the brand!
Another strong point was the cobalt floral trouser suit! The pattern is
reminiscent of an extremely vivid, modern toile de jouy. The whole collection really is an awesome mix of sweetness, and seduction... The hint of skin through lace, and the flash of shoulders, possibly the newest erogenous zone, shows the heady nature of the garments, while the girly, feminine shapes, keep it doll like... What do you think of Erdem's new showing? Love, or is it just "Eh"? Let me know!

Helmut... Lang.

"Helmut" Cardigan $140
Photo from Fashionista.com

 As a "child", one of my first "Luxury" retail jobs was at this amazing, then newly opened Japanese boutiques on Mercer St. The location was brilliant, stark white, and completely minimal. They carried Bernard Wilhelm, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Bikkembergs, and Comme, it was a time when Mercer St. south of Spring was a little dark. there were still empty warehouses, and it was all still a little sketchy. A couple other cool outposts had set up down there as well, Helmut Lang was directly behind us on Greene, and we shared window space with them. This was when Helmut was still at Helmut, and I would go peruse the racks of skinny trousers, and asymmetric jacket on my lunch, once walking away with an armband wallet that took my whole commission check.
 Well, Helmut has not designed for his namesake brand in a good number of years, and they have a rather filtered down version of his minimalist excesses. Don't get me wrong it's still a great leather, and basics line, I honestly covet a cream colored calfskin jacket I saw a while back... The cool kids still rock it, and now more of us cool kids will be able to afford it.

"Helmut" Dress $160
Photo from Fashionista.com

 The brand just launched Helmut, their first diffusion line. Made up mostly of soft separates, T-shirts, skirts and leggings, that are draped from jersey, and modal. The line also cuts $100's off the price tag! Ranging from $80 for the T-shirts to about $295 for dresses, Helmut makes access to the brand easier than holding our collective breath for the Barney's warehouse sale. Check out the new diffusion line from Helmut Lang at Fashionista.com, and let us know what you think. Will you be rushing out to scoop up the draped, asymmetric cardigan, or $80 tank top?

The End Of The Stiletto!

Zoraide Bootie

 OK, well, the title may be a bit dramatic... There will always be a need for a sexy nail thin stiletto heel out there, and even if the chunky platform heel is trending right now, I don't expect to see Charlize rocking that fatty heel Zoraide bootie with her bias cut Dior to any premiers. That being said, The stiletto seems to have become a cop out shoe for every girl, and fashion people are revolting with a chunkier alternative.

Prada Platform

While designers Marc Jacobs, and Miuccia Prada played with the proportion of the heel for fall and went with a 1940's via the 60's with a hint of 90's flashback, some like Phillip Lim put a modern twist with a pointy toe, and ankle strap, and Tom Ford went complete LUXE with a crocodile spine down the front of his gold platforms. 

Louis Vuitton Platform

 While looking at Style.Com's Accessory Index, it was easy to see that the spindly heel wasn't the major story for Fall, and while the designers just showed, and these shoes wont be in stores until at least mid summer, a quick browse around Nordrdstrom's Jeffrey Campbell page, and Aldo Shoes showed that even though this is a huge trend for Fall 2012, the look is totally summer ready! Yes, jacket's and chunky sweaters will finish this look perfectly, but think about the Thicker heeled sandals like Paco Rabanne, or even the Louis Vuitton stud finished platforms with cut off jeans, and a tank top! I LOVE the idea of a cropped slim trouser with Bally's Oxford.
 So even though we will never truly be saying R.I.P. to the stiletto heel, I think now is the perfect time to play with a "new" shape!

Photos From Style.com

Raf At Dior!

Raf Simons For Jil Sander Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 So after a long year of guessing, speculating, and rumors, the new Creative Director of Dior was "unofficially" announced today! Raf Simons who has had his own men's wear line for a number of years, and has been the creative director at Jil Sander since 2005, is taking over at the helm of Dior.
 His first showing for the brand will be the Dior Couture show in July! As we all know John Gallianno was removed from the position last February for his drunken hate rant at a bar he frequented in his Marais neighborhood in Paris. Since then Bill Gaytten has directed the design team at the house, and hasn't always been well received.
  I have argued that Haider Ackermann should be placed as the companies lead, but I am a HUGE fan of Simons work both in his men's wear lines, and at Jil Sander, especially the last four collections, three of which have referenced vintage shapes, couture techniques. I am waiting with bated breath to see what Raf does at the brand! With all of the skill and generations of training in the Couture Atelier, this could be MAGIC!

Another Good One!

Haider Ackermann Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

Haider Ackermann Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 I think it has become clear to anyone reading my posts, that I LOVE Haider Ackermann! He continually creates beautiful clothes, and dresses women in what they want to wear! It is no surprise to me that his name is still on the list of contenders to take over at Christian Dior (the brand reportedly sent him roses last week...)! His fall collection is a wonder of drape, texture, and layers creating the gorgeous shape that he has become known for!
The clothes seemed to be a lot more body conscious than usual, with long stretch jersey skirts, and dresses, and even though the trousers were wide leg, they were high waist, and fitted through through the top.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 When the shapes were exaggerated, as in the leather suit with a huge basque, they were still cinched in at the waist with a leather corset! His pants when not the wide legged story, were shantung, and slim, fitted through the leg, and topped with a fantastic wrapped blazer!
 This season showed a little more restraint, and it feels like a greater audience could wear his collection! I think we're gonna see a lot more people, not just Tilda Swinton, who is arguably his greatest fan, rocking the Ackermann aesthetic, and not just on red carpets! I would really enjoy seeing a Dior Couture collection with Haider in charge!

All Chained Up!

Paco Rabanne Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

Paco Rabanne Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 Usually the Fall/Winter shows keep me tuned to my computer screen as if nothing else in the world matters to me! Whether it was all the styling work I have been doing, or planning a big move back to NYC, this season was a bit of a let down with some notable  exceptions. And some of those are new some new additions to my list of excitement causing designers! "Like Who?" you ask? Well for one Manish Arora, (who is not a new name to the industry, I have just never been a fan...) showed his second season at the house of Paco Rabanne. This collection was true to Paco Rabanne's vision of the future, but told in a way that was modern and way less outre than Rabanne's original story. Think of a more realistic future rather than a sexy, "Barbarella" future... He utilized a big color for the season in cobalt blue! First on satin skirts, and dresses, and also on chain mail, a Rabanne classic! The layering on the clean mini shifts were chain mail and metals, true to the Rabanne history, but this time around I can actually see the clothes being worn in public. The Whole Collection is  clean and weablle, and seems really easy to fit into a woman's wardrobe

YSL Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

YSL Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 So, as a new favorite emerges, an older one departs... Hopefully not for long. Stefano Pilati, creative director of YSL for the past 7 years, is moving on from his post at the brand! He showed a brilliantly dark, and seductive collection also featuring a large amount of chain mail... covering silk dresses was a layer of linked metal, done as tank tops and skirts, the "fabric" added to the subversity of the looks. Also making a splash in the collection was a Cala Lily story! The flower came along in the shape of an amazing print on suits, and blown up huge on skirts, and jackets! It also came into play in the shape of gorgeous metal necklaces that wrapped around half the neck, and bracelets! I really hope someone swoops in on his talent soon! Maybe with backing for his own brand! I think the industry could use a few new names! You can see Pilati's final YSL collection at Style.com!

MCM, Don't Call It A Comeback! Or Do...

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  A couple months ago I was browsing Patricia Fields' online store and came across a collaboration between her, and the German Brand MCM, or Mode Creation Munich. It was the classic MCM monogrammed leather with Pat's standard illustrations... Very kitschy, and a cool way to re-introduce the brand into pop culture. Hip Hop artist's in the 80's rocked the gear, which lead to an over saturation of knock off's, and of course that cheapened the brand to something pretty laughable here in the states.

Pat Fields for MCM Tote
$630 at Pat Fields.com

 But in the last couple years, the brand ha been readopted by the music community, and the logo'd brand seems to be catching steam! Rick Ross is wearing a MCM bomber jacket in a video a couple years ago, then the Pat Field collab, Justin Bieber in a blue MCM motorcycle jacket... Then today looking through the March issue of Harper's Bazaar, there is an ad for the company! In fact it's a 4 page spread! That is some serious re branding! I'm not going to lie, it's nothing new, the quality of the images looks like a Dooney and Bourke ad, and the styling is a little sketchy, but, is the the start of a new monogrammed take over? What do you think? Can MCM make it again?

La Bohemme At Gucci!

Gucci Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 I have said for a little while now that all of Frida Giannini's collections at Gucci were running together for me, and they were all looking very, VERY similar. Well, today she brought a new direction to the Italian brand! Instead of the usual 70's disco fantasy she usually goes with, she is looking at the Jet Set of the 60's! The show today seemed very influenced by YSL's Russian decadence. Flowing pants, capes, and tons of beautiful brocades took the place of the skinny "Frida" trouser. From the first exit, a stunning floor length, velvet skirt, topped with a man's military style jacket, to the last, a flowing black chiffon gown with feather appliques, the show was new, modern bohemian collection.

Gucci Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 The pencil skirts were worn with blouse sleeved, sheer tops in a show that was reminiscent of Tom Ford's Version of Yves' genius! Yes, there were pajama suits, which to me are starting to feel a little stale, and very "right now", but the structured pieces, paired with softness, were where this collection found its stride! It was so strong, and dark, and feminine, all at the same time! Towards the end, the feathered pieces (you know I love some feathers!) were gorgeous! On the whole I really liked seeing Giannini branch out... Even if there were whiffs of her Gucci predecessor... See the collection at Style.com

Tory Who!? Burch!!!

Tory Burch Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 Tory Burch was a customer at a store I used to work at, and although I love to gripe about customers, she never gave me any reason to... She was always pleasant, and friendly... But I am not going to lie, I typically gloss over, and ignore Tory Burch's collections... I was excited when a friend of mine got a job with her right out of design school, and checked the collection today. I had no idea! This collection  was a LOT different than I had seen from her before. I had become accustomed to her prep school, WASP chic, and logo emblazoned pieces, but this collection was serious fashion!
  The looks were dainty, but still sensual. It was a take on American Sportswear, done with an Italian flare! In fact I almost would have thought I was looking at Nina Ricci, or Rochas... I loved the purple tweed skirt, with a lilac slip exposed, and the big fur sleeved jacket! Not to mention the pale shades of taupe (some mixed with black lace) that started the show!

Tory Burch Fall 2012
Photo from Style.com

 I asked my friend if h had anything to do with the transformation, and he honestly replied "no"... I will keep on watching to see what happens now! Check the developments at Style.com! What do you think!?